Jon Glassberg Shares His Best Climbing Tips and Bouldering Techniques

They say that the best job in the world is the job that is fun and enjoyable. For Jon Glassberg, this is absolutely true!

Let’s read on and discover his adventurous life as a climber and boulderer plus the reasons why controlling fear is part of the job!

Climber Jon Glassberg
Photo credit: Paige Claassen

Can you tell us a bit about yourself?

My name is Jon Glassberg. I am originally from Charlottesville, Virginia. I am an adventure film maker and photographer based in Boulder, Colorado. I am a climber first and foremost — I have been since I was 11 years old and am completely obsessed.

How and why did you get into climbing?

I started climbing when I was 11 years old at a summer camp for kids in Charlottesville, VA.
I got involved in climbing when a friend of mine in my neighborhood growing up invited me to climb with him in a summer camp and blindly I agreed and was HOOKED. I was so young when I started climbing that I just climbed for fun and it turned into a career.

Why is climbing important for you?

Climbing is important to me because I have made it my life, everything I do is climbing. My friends are all climbers and my work is all about adventure and climbing. I am completely surrounded by climbing and I love it.

Since I started climbing it helped give me confidence, strength, fitness, everything. I don’t know what or where I would be today without it.

It is really important to get outside! If you don’t interact with your environment, you don’t grow as a person. You can learn so much about yourself and the world by traveling and getting out into nature!

Climber Jon Glassberg
Photo credit: Caydie McCumber

What has been the best parts of your climbs?

I really like to commit to a project or a climb and see it through to completion. The process is what I love. Feeling like something is impossible then actually making it happen is crazy rewarding.

What has been the most difficult parts?

Making it in the climbing business is not easy. You have to pay your dues and put in the time and effort so you are noticed and respected. I had to pay my dues over the years and I always feel like I am paying dues so that never changes, you have to stay relevant and earn climbers respect every day of the week.

Planning and funding used to be an issue! Eventually, as you build clout, it gets easier to make money and survive off climbing alone.

Any time you go on an expedition, you face danger and it can be scary. Controlling fear is part of the job!

Typically, everything isn’t a mess, and as a film maker, a mess can sometimes be a great story. I usually put my head down and try not to stress when things get crazy or I am tired.

Climber Jon Glassberg
Photo credit: Rich Crowder

How do you handle injuries and recovery?

As an athlete, you get injured, that’s part of the game. I am a big dude (I am 6’3″ tall and weigh 190lbs!) so I often tweak fingers and tendons. I treat injuries the same as any athlete, pain killers and massage. I usually take some time off after an injury to let my body reset and then dive back in slowly.

Training depends on the injury but if it’s not terrible, I just tweak my routine to accommodate the injury. If my finger is injured, I will do more cardio and easy climbing that doesn’t impact it too much.

If you are in injured, keep moving, don’t stop all activity. You don’t want to get lazy and let your body give up!

What are your best advice for new climbers?

Climb a lot, find a friend to mentor you and just have fun climbing.

Over training. Don’t do it. If you are training power, give your body time to recover!

Find a friend to motivate you and explore/partner with you on climbs!

How do you prepare for your climbs?

I do a lot of hiking and scrambling in the flatirons in boulder but mostly I climb and train in the gym to keep fit and prepped for projects.

I love reading about other peoples’ experiences in the mountains. Keeps me psyched and motivated.

I plan all of my climbing trips around the best season to be there and the projects that I want to try in that style.

Climber Jon Glassberg
Photo credit: Francois Lebeau

How do you finance your climbs?

I have a combination of sponsorship and photo/video work to support my travels as a climber. I run a full time photo video production company so climbing and work are the same.

I spend all of my money on climbing. It is what I love to do and why I spend all my time working, so I can go climbing and afford it.

How do you balance normal life with climbing?

I am fully immersed. I spend every second working on climbing projects, thinking about climbing, and training for climbing. It can be bad for friendships and relationships but it makes me happy so that’s what matters.

I am currently single so not held down by anyone right now.

What has been your best climbing purchase below $100?

Foam roller keeps me loose and injury free, most of the time.

Climber Jon Glassberg
Photo credit: Rachel Avallone

What other favorite climbing gear do you have?

I climb in the Solutions, the Skwamas, and the Testarossas from Sportiva.

I climb in Sportiva shoes and strongly believe that they are the most important tool in the kit. I also use friction labs chalk, which needs no recommendation, it’s the best period.

As a boulderer, if you don’t have good shoes and chalk, you have nothing.

What will the future bring?

Future plans include a trip to Morocco, Austria and England to climb with Jorg Verhoeven and Katha Saurwein for an upcoming film project then Fontainebleau in the winter and Rocklands in the summer of 2018!

I have been training for the Big Island in Fontainebleau and that is my goal for 2018!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*

25 Shares
Tweet
Share
Share
Email
Pin